tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post8227473456007080270..comments2023-08-30T11:18:33.021+02:00Comments on The accidental hermit: Speed pram-related issuesUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post-51553801692423063642011-07-17T16:21:46.129+02:002011-07-17T16:21:46.129+02:00Hello Northmark!
If faced with this at my bench, I...Hello Northmark!<br />If faced with this at my bench, I would drill a new hole aft of the existing one that now holds the barrel adjuster fixture. A round hole, that could then be filed square to accept the square post. (Looks like there is room on the steel arm to do this.) For this new hole I would make it so the post is now held at an angle that improves the path of the cable-to-brake actuating arm. What I can't see is whether the post is bolted on, or peened or welded. I hope it is threaded so you can do this fix easily! If not, you could drill a hole into the square post after hacksawing the back weldment or peened-over metal from it. (leave the square shoulder though) then tap it to accept a bolt. Would need a "bottom" type tap, not a pointed through-type. Make sure to use a lockwasher.Eileen A. Brodiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15755750337175215845noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post-38273013365192898772011-07-17T16:20:30.321+02:002011-07-17T16:20:30.321+02:00Hello Northmark!
If faced with this at my bench, I...Hello Northmark!<br />If faced with this at my bench, I would drill a new hole aft of the existing one that now holds the barrel adjuster fixture. A round hole, that could then be filed square to accept the square post. (Looks like there is room on the steel arm to do this.) For this new hole I would make it so the post is now held at an angle that improves the path of the cable-to-brake actuating arm. What I can't see is whether the post is bolted on, or peened or welded. I hope it is threaded so you can do this fix easily! If not, you could drill a hole into the square post after hacksawing the back weldment or peened-over metal from it. (leave the square shoulder though) then tap it to accept a bolt. Would need a "bottom" type tap, not a pointed through-type. Make sure to use a lockwasher.Eileen A. Brodiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15755750337175215845noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post-66140855482762222772011-07-13T04:01:12.968+02:002011-07-13T04:01:12.968+02:00+ 1 on the Tandem cables... yes it's a PITA to...+ 1 on the Tandem cables... yes it's a PITA to have to order them, but they're typically stronger since they're designed for more weight. <br /><br />As far as the brake and routing, you're in the right direction, old cables/housing will cause some friction and the addition of the strange angle of cable departure isn't helping. Might try one of these<br /><br />http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents/ <br /><br />to help reduce drag/friction. <br /><br />Finally, you should be able to add a barrel adjuster at either end for quick adjustments at the lever or brake arm. <br /><br />Cheersfatbob29rhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08747122775697829654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post-4637377920677101212011-07-09T06:12:34.525+02:002011-07-09T06:12:34.525+02:00The brake levers feel tight and nice, but don'...The brake levers feel tight and nice, but don't really lead to a whole lot of braking. The Christiania has been stored outdoors all its life, and I haven't changed the cables for ages. I think I'll change the levers to ones with adjusting barrels and locks, change the cables and also open up the brakes. Also, one of the brake arms seems stuck. <br /><br /><a href="The%20brake%20arms%20feel%20tight%20and%20nice,%20but%20don't%20really%20lead%20to%20a%20whole%20lot%20of%20braking.%20The%20Christiania%20has%20been%20stored%20outdoors%20all%20its%20life,%20and%20I%20haven't%20changed%20the%20cables%20for%20ages.%20I%20think%20I'll%20change%20the%20levers%20to%20ones%20with%20adjusting%20barrels%20and%20locks,%20change%20the%20cables%20and%20also%20open%20up%20the%20brakes.%20Also,%20one%20of%20the%20brake%20arms%20seems%20stuck.%20This%20guy%20also%20added%20a%20retrofit%20v-brake%20on%20the%20rear%20wheel%20of%20his%20trike.%20If%20I%20did%20that%20too,%20I'd%20have%20four%20brakes,%20can't%20get%20too%20many" rel="nofollow">This guy</a> also added a retrofit v-brake on the rear wheel of his trike. If I did that too, I'd have four brakes, can't get too manyNorthmarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12655788565660714552noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4844065586392095541.post-46001891882555677962011-07-08T22:33:00.760+02:002011-07-08T22:33:00.760+02:00I'm going to sound a complete bike nerd here, ...I'm going to sound a complete bike nerd here, but there we go:<br /><br />Our Bakfiets has Tektro Brake handles and Nexus hubs, and I can't say I'm wild about the performance either, but they're okay. The Tektro brakes have adjuster barrels and they do make a difference to the amount of pull you get out of the brake, sometimes to the extent of causing drag, especially on the front brake where it's a very fine margin between having the brake work and having a sort of permanent handbrake. <br /><br />The length of cables doesn't help, of course. I have to get Tandem cables for most Bakfiets and Xtracycle-related cabling.<br /><br />It doesn't seem to offer many options for rerouting the cable. How far does the brake arm move back when you pull the cable? Perhaps you could add a pivoty thing (technical term) between the aduster and the brake arm to reduce wear on the cable? or a router rather like the little metal right-angle found on V-brakes?<br /><br />(The above is based on guesswork and an almost total lack of experience in drum brakes)Andy in Germanyhttp://www.workbike.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.com