The barrio surrounding my new digs sports some shops with hand-written signs. Though individual neon signs, or even normal plastic ones, can be seriously attractive, they are always foul in aggregate.
Visting Ireland in the early 1990s I was fascinated to see that signpainting was still a serious craft. I actually saw, on more than one occasion, people laying gold leaf on the inside of shop windows after first having written something in black, gaelic-looking letters.
I've also seen signpainters in action in America, not doing replicas of ye quaint ole style-stuff, but writing utilitarian, though to be honest not very lovely-looking messages about local furniture salesmen and the like.
I have no idea what EZLN means here. It's the acronym for Zapatistas in Mexico, sure. But I haven't seen many of those around here.